With a promising long period Swell-forecast and the knowledge that Garrett Mc Namara had just in these minutes surfed some of the craziest 40ft. waves in Nazare it was plain to see Danger Island would be smokin... Not having paddled or swum much for a long amount of time, I really needed a good 2 or 3 days to get back into things but was quite happy I didn´t half-die the first couple of days of the really solid 4 meter 17 second swell.
and yet another time the island showed it´s fickle and magic sides. With changing weather patterns there was a bit of driving involved but there was gold at the End of the rainbow with heaving lefts and rights around the place´s cobblestone littered shores. Sketchy is always an understatement when it comes to entering or leaving the water, which is one reason why you get to surf by yourself a lot. I squeezed in an amazing amount of great surfs into 12 days which I shared with the tight crew of core locals that definitly have a good point for protecting their place from people without enough respect or knowldege of the sea. However it was great to be back, score some sick waves and catch up with everyone, here´s a few pics from a week of eat, sleep & surf