the awaited swell was supposed to be a real good one with favourable winds, long period lines and a solid size to it, lasting for nearly a week. We weren´t dissapointed and after a couple of 8ft. days by 2.1. it was in full swing and really heavy. Getting in & out is always a extreme hassle, no matter if 2 or 30 ft. and the poundings I can honestly say are second to none in terms of Energy & holddown, makes most Indo-Spots seem like a walk in the park. The Queen of the Coast was doing it´s proper Mavericks impersonation and I got one of the more humbling experiences of my life this day. The Girls were charging hard which was great to see, big ups to Eva & Alena. However, we had some unforgettable Surf in great, challenging conditions and bar a few little injuries everyone came out fine. Don´t be fooled though by the pics, this is all heavy water and we saw some average surfers getting in proper trouble out there.
great times & thanks to the Locals & the Danger Island Crew & to Light Board Corp. for some great new Boards that work awesome. http://www.lightboardcorp.com/products