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Fiji Part 2 - best swell ever @ Cloudbreak

Michi Mohr August 6, 2011

Well, there´s not much to say about that Swell, people called it: „the 2 best consecutive days in Fijian Surfing“, „the 3rd biggest Swell ever at Cloudbreak“, „the longest time over 8ft. in a row ever (9 days)“ and so on. Kelly did miss J-Bay for it, that means something for sure as well. All crew were there and there were going really hard. I saw Jamie Sterling, Bruce Irons and Mark Healey get awesome ones as well as Dave Wassell and a couple of others get the shacks of their life. We spent the days in the boat watching the whole show unfold, and with 15-18ft. Hawaiian size it was pretty serious shit, the biggest barrels I´ve seen for sure. I was tempted but since I broke my boards except the trusty 6´7 anyway, there was not even a chance of trying on the 2 huge days, since even Kelly and all the crew switched to serious Guns 8ft. upwards. Maybe it was good for something as well, since on those 2 days so many people had 2-Wave holddowns, which is a pretty serious thing on any break. Cloudbreak at this size will just shake the shit outta you, and more than a handful of crew were about to drown.

The swell just didn´t stop and four days later I still surfed solid 8-10ft. Cloudbreak and could enjoy the Kelly Show every day with my own eyes, which was pretty amazing, having him next to you in the water and surfing this wave like it´s a 2ft. Beachie. On the last day I took an unlucky bending One, surfed it too far to the Inside and got smashed on the reef so violently that I pretty much had serious cuts all over my body and ended up with a torn ligament as well. Since then I dind´t surf on the trip, which sucked but all wounds healed pretty well so far. Well, I can´t really say it was all worth it, but this week has been a pretty amazing one, for sure the biggest barrels I´ve seen and surfed and the World´s greatest show in the water happening...

 

great shots by travel-buddy Birgar Olsen: http://www.birgarolsen.com

← California - good times on our last stopFiji Part 1 - Frigates, the Board-Eater →

doing Europe.

Safe to say this Continent offers so much in history, landscapes, diversity, cultures, amazing people as well as waves. So instead of doing yet another overseas trip I enjoy some self-proclaimed freetime discovering some of these places, visiting friends and taking a little bit of footage along the way.

 

michi@michimohr.com  |