Today, 25.12. the much awaited long period Swell rocked up and it was pretty intense. After 2 hours in the water, I had to say Goodbye to my brand-new 7´0, which I really loved. it felt great on the the Takeoffs, but the legrope broke on a big set, and the Board got smashed on the inside. Other than that, did a lot of driving, and saw some amazing, but Super-Hardcore Spots, with huuuge waves but no one in. Some of them are indeed to dangerous to surf with that size and without Jetski Assist. I´ll see what the next days will offer, so far having a ball, but wrecked quite a few things, 1 Board, the GoPro Cam, couple of other things... great way to spend Xmas though.
