what can I say, I´m just absolutely in love with that place.
- The vibe sitting in the lineup under that fort / lighthouse and to know this place produced the biggest waves on earth just days before
- the power of the canyon: it´s probably the most unique ocean setup for huge waves there is. there´d be 6ft. at 20 sec. from NNW and your suddenly facing 15 ft. faces coming in from the canyon from the south
- the vibe of the town, the food, the people and the prettiness of this old fishing village is just really special.
well, these are definitly (along with Danger Island and Cloudbreak) the heaviest waves I know of and it really amazes me how that place gets so much more swell than every else plus how you get proper defined peaks / sandbanks on a beach that has a thousand foot waves all the time.
Just heavy, really heavy and very beautiful.