from before xmas the high pressure weather pattern just continued and back to back swells kept coming, providing awesome heavy waves to pretty much ourselves. With 6-8 hours surf a day for weeks it´s been a good chance to work on my approach to surf those gnarly waves in a slightly different way. With really good surfers around, I tried to push myself to sit a little deeper, do proper bottom- and top-turns, ride shorter boards, get the odd barrel every once in a while and approach solid waves with less fear... it really helped I guess and at the end I felt good on boards I never liked, snapped fins doing bottom turns and really got some nice hacks and barrels in, still lightyears away from some of the powersurfing you see there in the water by the crew. A lot of beatings and holddowns also were the proper reality check, when things got too "easy" if you speak of that in waves 2-4 times overhead. A truely magic place that will always take care of itself, though needs to be approached with the right attitude and respect.
